Second hand, not second best!

By Beth Colmer and Olivia Hart

Oxfam's #SecondHandSeptember is celebrating its sixth year this month. Created to promote the growing trend that second hand certainly doesn’t mean second best, the initiative also highlights the detrimental impact of fast fashion on the planet. And with the astronomical growth of apps like Vinted (which, in 2023, reported a 61% increase in revenue from the previous year), it’s a trend that we are fully embracing. 

Moreover, the global second-hand fashion market increased by 18% in 2023 to $197bn and is expected to reach a whopping $350bn by 2028. According to the same report by GlobalData for resale specialist ThredUp, two out of five items in Gen Z’s wardrobe are preowned.  

Analyst, Honor Grant (27) is drawn to the uniqueness of second-hand finds: “I walk into somewhere like Zara and am hyper aware that there are just carbon copies of these items everywhere – I like the thrill of finding something no one else has.” 

But not all Gen Z members are fully sold on second-hand fashion. One colleague expressed doubts, saying, “I often find second-hand items lower in quality. If I can get something new for £20-30, I’d prefer that.” 

The second-hand fashion trend truly solidified its presence into the mainstream when in 2022, Love Island announced eBay as its headline sponsor. The partnership continues to promote the site’s fashion offering and highlights the power of preloved fashion. In another bold and brilliant move, in April 2024 eBay followed the lead of its competitor Vinted by removing all fees for selling pre-owned clothing.  

Vinted surged in 2023 reaching profitability with €596.3 million in revenue. As a favourite among younger shoppers, the Lithuanian brand is now partnering with Channel 4 in the launch of its new series “Second-hand Showdown” hosted by influencer and reality star Vicky Pattison. Each episode shows two stylists competing to create new looks for a guest only using pre-owned fashion. 

Coincidentally (or perhaps not) #SecondHandSeptember coincides with the ‘Big Four’ fashion events, where designers showcase upcoming trends, however Extinction Rebellion insists there's no room for London Fashion Week amid a climate crisis. 

The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions - this is more than international flights and maritime shipping combined. But what often flies under the radar is its heavy reliance on oil. From transportation and packaging to the synthetic fabrics themselves, fashion consumes a staggering 1.35% of global oil—more than the annual use of Spain.  

Luxury fashion brands and fast fashion retailers share responsibility for driving overconsumption and waste. Fast fashion is impacting the second-hand market too, flooding it with poor-quality garments. As individuals, we must focus on quality and longevity in our fashion purchases, both new and pre-loved. 

Rather than having no place in the climate crisis, fashion weeks can harness their trend-setting power to redefine what is fashionable. Oxfam’s partnership with Vinted at this year's London Fashion Week for #SecondHandSeptember shows us that second-hand fashion isn’t just a phase - it’s the future. You can set trends, spark creativity, and stay stylish without wrecking the planet.